Painting brick is one of the few exterior decisions that is genuinely hard to undo. Once a brick facade is painted, getting back to bare brick is expensive, messy, and often impossible without damaging the masonry. Before you commit, it’s worth understanding exactly what you’re trading.

Boulder in particular has a lot of brick: older bungalows in Mapleton Hill, mid-century ranches, and brick accents on newer builds. We get asked about painting it constantly. Here’s the straight version of the conversation we have with homeowners.

The Case for Painting Brick

There are real reasons people paint brick, and they’re not just cosmetic.

It transforms dated or mismatched brick. Orange-red brick from the 1960s and 70s, or brick that clashes with newer additions, can make an otherwise updated home look stuck in time. Paint unifies the exterior and modernizes it more dramatically than almost any other change.

It covers previous repairs and mismatched mortar. If brick has been patched, tuckpointed with non-matching mortar, or repaired around new windows, paint hides the inconsistency.

It can brighten a dark facade. Heavy dark brick on a north-facing wall can make a home feel closed-off. A lighter color opens it up.

When brick paint is done correctly, with the right breathable masonry coating and full prep, the result lasts and looks intentional.

The Case Against Painting Brick

Now the honest part. There are good reasons brick was designed to be left bare.

It’s permanent. This is the big one. Stripping paint off brick is labor-intensive, risks damaging the brick face, and rarely returns it to its original appearance. Once you paint, you’ve committed to repainting it for the life of the home.

It changes how the wall handles moisture. Brick and mortar are porous by design. They absorb moisture and release it through evaporation. The wrong coating traps that moisture inside the wall, and in Colorado’s freeze-thaw climate, trapped moisture freezes, expands, and can cause the brick face to spall, meaning the surface flakes and crumbles. This is the single most important technical reason to use a breathable, vapor-permeable masonry paint and never a standard exterior latex.

It adds permanent maintenance. Bare brick needs almost no upkeep. Painted brick needs repainting on a cycle, just like siding. You’re signing up for ongoing maintenance the brick didn’t previously require.

It can hurt value with the wrong buyer. Some buyers, and some historic-district guidelines, specifically prefer original brick. In parts of Boulder with older housing stock, painted brick is not universally seen as an upgrade.

What It Costs to Paint Brick in Northern Colorado

Painting brick costs more per square foot than painting siding, and for good reason. Brick is textured and porous, so it drinks up primer and paint. Mortar joints have to be cut in carefully. Proper prep, including cleaning, repairing failed mortar, and priming with a masonry-specific primer, is non-negotiable.

For a typical home, brick painting generally runs at the higher end of exterior painting ranges because of the added material and labor. The exact figure depends on the home’s size, the brick’s condition, and how much mortar repair is needed first. For how exterior pricing is built in general, see our Northern Colorado exterior painting cost guide.

The costly mistake is hiring on price and getting a crew that skips the masonry primer or uses standard wall paint. That job traps moisture, and in our climate it can start failing within a few winters.

The Prep That Makes or Breaks a Brick Paint Job

If you decide to paint, the prep determines whether it lasts a decade or fails in two years.

  • Cleaning. All dirt, efflorescence (the white mineral residue that surfaces on brick), and loose material has to come off first. Paint won’t bond to a dirty or chalky surface.
  • Mortar repair. Any cracked or missing mortar gets repaired before painting. Painting over failing mortar seals in a problem.
  • Masonry primer. A primer formulated for brick is essential for adhesion and for managing moisture.
  • Breathable topcoat. A vapor-permeable masonry or mineral-based paint lets the wall release moisture. This is the part cheap bids skip, and it’s the part that matters most in a freeze-thaw climate.

Alternatives to Painting Brick

If you want a change but you’re nervous about permanence, two alternatives are worth knowing.

Limewash. A mineral-based, breathable treatment that soaks into the brick rather than forming a film on top. It gives a softer, weathered, European look, it’s fully breathable, and it can be partially removed or allowed to wear naturally. Many homeowners who want an updated look but fear the permanence of paint choose limewash instead.

German smear or mortar wash. A mortar-based technique that partially covers the brick for a textured, old-world appearance. Also more forgiving than paint.

Neither is reversible to perfectly original brick either, but both are more breathable and less of a hard commitment than a full paint film.

So, Should You Do It?

Paint your brick if: the existing brick is dated or mismatched, you’re confident in the color direction, and you accept the permanent maintenance cycle. Just insist on breathable masonry products and full prep.

Leave it bare if: the brick is in good original condition, you live in an area where original brick is valued, or you’re not certain you’ll love the color in five years. When in doubt, limewash is the lower-risk path to a similar visual change.

Considering painting brick on your home in Boulder, Loveland, or Estes Park? We’ll give you an honest assessment of whether it’s right for your house, and use breathable masonry systems if you move forward. Call 720-849-7654 or request a free estimate through our contact form.